:root{--paper:#f5f0e5;--ink:#253b32;--orange:#c64425;--muted:#666a5d;--line:#cfcdbd;--serif:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:16px;line-height:1.55}a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}button,input,select{font:inherit}a,button{touch-action:manipulation}button{cursor:pointer}a:focus-visible,button:focus-visible,input:focus-visible,select:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--orange);outline-offset:5px}.skip{position:absolute;top:-70px;padding:12px;background:white;z-index:10}.skip:focus{top:0}header{max-width:1440px;margin:auto;padding:23px 5%;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);gap:30px}.wordmark{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:bold;letter-spacing:-4px;font-size:52px;line-height:1}.wordmark span{font-size:33px;color:var(--orange);display:inline-block;vertical-align:top;letter-spacing:0;margin-left:5px}nav{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:33px;font-size:13px}nav a:hover{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:6px}nav span{color:var(--orange)}main{min-height:70vh}.wrap{max-width:1320px;margin:auto;padding:0 5%}.eyebrow{text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:2px;font-size:11px;font-weight:bold;margin:0 0 24px}.hero{padding:58px 5% 68px;max-width:1440px;margin:auto;display:grid;grid-template-columns:.8fr 1.2fr;gap:45px;align-items:center}.hero h1{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:normal;letter-spacing:-4px;line-height:1.02;font-size:clamp(58px,6vw,92px);margin:0 0 28px}.hero h1 em{color:var(--orange);font-weight:normal}.hero p.intro{max-width:440px;font-size:16px;line-height:1.8}.hero .eyebrow{color:var(--orange)}.textlink{display:inline-block;border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink);padding:8px 0;font-size:13px;font-weight:bold;margin-top:16px}.textlink span{margin-left:30px}.photo-stack{position:relative;padding:0 0 38px 25px}.hero-photo{width:100%;height:570px;object-fit:cover;display:block;filter:none}.inset-photo{position:absolute;width:46%;height:220px;object-fit:cover;bottom:0;left:-24px;border:7px solid var(--paper);transform:rotate(-5deg)}.photo-note{font-family:var(--serif);font-style:italic;font-size:18px;position:absolute;right:8px;bottom:0}.ribbon{border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:15px 5%;display:flex;justify-content:space-around;gap:20px;text-transform:uppercase;font-size:10px;letter-spacing:2px}.ribbon span{white-space:nowrap}.ribbon b{color:var(--orange)}.section{padding:70px 0}.section-head{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:end;gap:30px;margin-bottom:30px}h2{font:normal clamp(34px,4vw,54px)/1.1 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-1.5px;margin:0 0 14px}.section-head p{max-width:470px;font-size:14px;color:var(--muted);margin:0}.story-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:28px}.story-card img{width:100%;height:340px;object-fit:cover;display:block;transition:filter .2s;filter:none}.story-card:hover img{filter:none}.card-meta{font-size:10px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:1.3px;color:var(--muted);margin:17px 0 10px}.story-card h3{font:normal 27px/1.15 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-.4px;margin:0 0 12px}.story-card p{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);margin:0}.no-photo{height:260px;background:#d7d8c8;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;font:italic 36px var(--serif);padding:30px}.journey-band{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);padding:68px 0}.journey-band .eyebrow{color:#edb593}.journey-intro{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:60px;align-items:start}.journey-intro p{font-size:15px;line-height:1.8;margin:0}.journey-line{margin-top:45px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:30px}.milestone{border-top:1px solid #78877a;padding-top:15px}.milestone small{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:1.5px;text-transform:uppercase;color:#edb593}.milestone h3{font:normal 25px/1.2 var(--serif);margin:12px 0}.milestone a{font-size:12px;text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:5px}.journey-band .textlink{border-color:var(--paper);margin-top:35px}.collections{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:30px}.collection-link{padding:25px 20px 25px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);display:flex;gap:12px;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;font:normal 24px var(--serif)}.collection-link span{font:16px Arial;color:var(--orange)}.archive-head{padding:60px 0 30px}.archive-head h1,.journey-title h1{font:normal clamp(46px,6vw,80px)/1.05 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-3px;margin:0 0 22px}.archive-head p{max-width:650px;color:var(--muted)}.filters{display:flex;gap:14px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin:30px 0 15px}.filters input{flex:1;min-width:200px;padding:14px 16px;background:transparent;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:0;color:var(--ink)}.filters select{padding:12px 30px 12px 14px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink)}.result-count{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin:20px 0}.archive-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr));gap:45px 28px;padding-bottom:70px}.archive-grid img,.archive-grid .no-photo{height:360px}.empty{padding:50px 0}.journey-title{padding:65px 0 30px;max-width:850px}.journey-title .lead{font:normal 23px/1.6 var(--serif);max-width:730px}.trail{padding-bottom:60px}.trail-item{display:grid;grid-template-columns:70px minmax(300px,40%) 1fr;gap:35px;padding:35px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line);align-items:center}.trail-num{font:italic 64px var(--serif);color:var(--orange)}.trail-item img{height:300px;width:100%;object-fit:cover}.trail-item h2{font-size:34px}.trail-item p{font-size:14px;max-width:560px}.trail-item .card-meta{margin-top:0}.reader-head{max-width:850px;margin:auto;padding:48px 5% 30px}.back{display:inline-block;color:var(--muted);font-size:12px;margin-bottom:35px}.reader-head h1{font:normal clamp(40px,5vw,67px)/1.1 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-2px;margin:0 0 20px}.reader-meta{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted)}.archive-note{border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);font-size:11px;padding:12px 0;margin-top:25px;color:var(--muted)}.article{max-width:850px;margin:auto;padding:0 5% 40px;font:normal 19px/1.85 var(--serif);color:#333d35;overflow-wrap:anywhere}.article img{width:min(1080px,calc(100vw - 48px));max-width:none;height:auto;display:block;margin:34px 0 24px;max-height:1100px;object-fit:contain;position:relative;left:50%;transform:translateX(-50%)}.article div{max-width:100%}.article a{color:#a03823;text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}.article a:has(img){display:block}.article iframe,.article video{max-width:100%;min-height:300px;border:0}.article br+br{line-height:1.7}.article .missing-photo{padding:30px;background:#e6e1d6;color:var(--muted);font:14px Arial}.reader-bottom{max-width:850px;margin:auto;padding:15px 5% 70px}.tags{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px}.tag{font-size:11px;border:1px solid var(--line);padding:6px 10px}.reader-next{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:40px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:30px;padding-top:25px}.reader-next small{font-size:10px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:1px}.reader-next p{font:23px var(--serif)}.reader-next a:last-child{text-align:right}.loading{padding:70px;text-align:center}.error-box{max-width:700px;margin:80px auto;padding:30px}.notebook{padding:30px 0 60px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);font-size:13px;color:var(--muted)}footer{background:#e7e4d8;padding:40px 5%;display:flex;gap:40px;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center}footer .wordmark{font-size:42px}footer p{font-size:12px;line-height:1.8;margin:0}footer>a:last-child{font-size:11px}button.load-more{display:block;margin:0 auto 60px;background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);border:0;padding:14px 40px}.page-top{scroll-margin-top:20px}
@media(min-width:1500px){.hero{gap:85px}.hero-photo{height:640px}}@media(max-width:850px){header{padding:20px 6%;gap:15px}.wordmark{font-size:44px}nav{gap:17px;font-size:11px}.hero{gap:30px;padding:40px 6% 55px}.hero h1{font-size:64px}.hero-photo{height:460px}.inset-photo{height:145px;left:-5px}.photo-note{font-size:14px}.story-card img{height:290px}.archive-grid img,.archive-grid .no-photo{height:310px}.journey-line{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.collections{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.trail-item{grid-template-columns:60px 200px 1fr;gap:20px}.trail-item h2{font-size:27px}.trail-item img{height:180px}}
@media(max-width:600px){header{padding:17px 6%;align-items:center}header .wordmark{font-size:39px}header .wordmark span{font-size:24px}nav{gap:17px}nav a:first-child{display:none}.hero{display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:stretch;padding-top:32px;gap:30px}.hero h1{font-size:66px;letter-spacing:-3px}.hero .intro{font-size:15px;margin-bottom:5px}.hero .eyebrow{margin-bottom:22px}.photo-stack{padding-left:20px;padding-bottom:30px}.hero-photo{height:440px}.inset-photo{height:145px;left:0}.photo-note{right:0;bottom:-3px}.ribbon{justify-content:space-between;gap:6px;font-size:8px;letter-spacing:1px}.ribbon span:last-child,.ribbon b{display:none}.wrap{padding:0 6%}.section{padding:45px 0}.section-head{display:block}.section-head p{margin-top:20px}.story-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:33px}.story-card img{height:350px}.story-card h3{font-size:29px}.story-card p{font-size:14px}.journey-band{padding:45px 0}.journey-intro{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:15px}.journey-line{gap:28px 20px}.milestone h3{font-size:22px}.collection-link{font-size:22px}.archive-head{padding-top:40px}.archive-head h1,.journey-title h1{font-size:52px;letter-spacing:-2px}.filters{gap:10px}.filters input{flex-basis:100%}.filters select{width:calc(50% - 5px);font-size:13px;padding:12px}.archive-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:36px}.archive-grid img,.archive-grid .no-photo{height:320px}.archive-grid h3{font-size:22px}.archive-grid .card-meta{font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.6px}.archive-grid .story-card p{display:none}.trail-item{grid-template-columns:35px 1fr;gap:10px 20px;align-items:start}.trail-num{font-size:37px}.trail-item img{height:310px}.trail-item>div:last-child{grid-column:2}.trail-item h2{font-size:30px}.journey-title{padding-top:40px}.journey-title .lead{font-size:21px}.article{font-size:18px;padding-left:6%;padding-right:6%}.reader-head{padding:30px 6% 25px}.reader-head h1{font-size:43px}.reader-bottom{padding-left:6%;padding-right:6%}footer{flex-wrap:wrap;padding:35px 6%;gap:22px}footer p{flex-basis:65%;font-size:11px}footer>a:last-child{margin-left:0}.reader-next{gap:20px}.reader-next p{font-size:20px}.eyebrow{font-size:10px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*{transition:none!important}}@media print{header,footer,.reader-bottom,.back{display:none}.article{max-width:100%;font-size:12pt}.article img{max-width:100%;width:auto;max-height:400px;left:auto;transform:none;margin:20px auto}.reader-head{max-width:100%}}

.journey-origin-link{color:var(--orange);text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:3px}

/* Restaurant reviews: location-first browsing. */
.reviews-home{border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.review-destinations{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(5,1fr);gap:12px;margin:30px 0 36px}.review-destinations a{border:1px solid var(--line);padding:18px 15px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:12px}.review-destinations a:hover{border-color:var(--orange)}.review-destinations span{font:27px var(--serif)}.review-destinations small{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted)}.review-cities{display:flex;gap:10px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin:32px 0 10px}.review-cities a{border:1px solid var(--line);padding:10px 15px;font-size:13px}.review-cities a.active{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);border-color:var(--ink)}.review-cities span{margin-left:8px;opacity:.65}.review-location{margin-top:17px;font-size:11px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:1.5px;color:var(--orange)}.review-location+.card-meta{margin-top:6px}.review-archive-note{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted)}.archive-head h1 em{font-weight:normal;color:var(--orange)}
@media(max-width:850px){.review-destinations{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr)}header nav{gap:18px}}
@media(max-width:600px){header nav a[href="#journey"],header nav a[href="#collection/Family"]{display:none}header nav a.review-nav{display:block;font-size:10px}header nav{gap:14px}.review-destinations{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.review-destinations a{padding:15px}.review-destinations span{font-size:25px}.review-cities{gap:8px}.review-cities a{padding:8px 10px;font-size:12px}.review-cities a:first-child{display:block}}

.archived-comments{border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin:40px 0;padding:35px 0}.archived-comments h2{font-size:34px}.comment-note{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted)}.archive-comment{padding:22px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.archive-comment h3{font-size:14px;margin:0}.archive-comment time{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted)}.archive-comment>div{font:17px/1.75 var(--serif);margin-top:12px;overflow-wrap:anywhere}

.native-comments label{display:block;font-size:13px;margin:20px 0 8px}.native-comments textarea{width:100%;font:16px/1.5 Arial;background:transparent;border:1px solid var(--line);padding:12px;color:var(--ink)}.comment-button{border:1px solid var(--ink);background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);padding:10px 18px;font:13px Arial;margin:12px 0}.comment-reply{margin-left:24px}